The Family Store

I hit the place once a week at least. It's on third ave between Ovington and 69^th street in Bayridge. I go for the homemade yogurt that is almost as good as the yogurt I've had in Greece. It's rich and fresh. I like to strain mine through cheese cloth until it gets thick and creamy-at least I do when I can find cheesecloth, it doesn't work so hot with paper towels.The first thing to maneuver around in the entrance is Oscar the enormous orange tabby cat who spreads himself on the little ramp leading in and won't move. I have to challenge him with the wheels of my red wired cart; nudge, nudge until his foot moves a half an inch so I can squeeze by.The store is crowded and the aisles cramped around all the wonderful treasures on display. There is a middle island with huge glass jars full of an assortment of regular nuts and grains as well as more exotic offerings. There are tiny dried strawberries, red like blood clots, and spicy candied pecans that are perfect for a green salad. Peeled pistachios, jumbo cashews and Chinese or Spanish pine nuts are there with figs, dried currents and cranberries along with dried peaches, mango and my favorite, dried cantaloupe, the color of orange sherbet. There are shelled pumpkin and squash seeds and even a big jar of roasted corn nuts. Plethora abounds and is displayed in the spice containers behind the counter too. There you have unsweetened shredded coconut, curry powder, turmeric, fenugreek, black caraway seeds and dried herbs with a jar of Frankincense and a jar of dried lemons, blackened and shriveled. There is even dried eggplant; little slices tied up in bundles. Around the edges and on the shelves are cans and jars of all things Middle Eastern and barrels on the floor hold flours, beans, and grains.The glass display in the rear holds the fresh made offerings from the kitchen in the back while a long counter of olive bins sits in front and below where you can scoop up Kalamatas, with or without pits, oil cured black Moroccan olives and Alonso olives from Chile or green, black and brown Lebanese olives. On the right in front of the spice shelves is the register on a wooden counter that also holds treats hot from the kitchen and alluring sweet things. Up on the wall behind the register are family photos-going back 25 years since the place opened with lots of babies on display. My favorite is the one of a ten day old holding his little head up. Honest! When I first started coming to the store a few years ago Sam's mother, Minerva, assured me of the facts: ten days old, her grandson, and his neck was strong enough to lift his wobbling new born head! It floors me every time I see it.The shop is redolent with the scent of all the savory goodies it's crammed with: a salty nutty flavor along with spicy accents and roasted meats taint the air with delicious aromas.The last time I went in I was only going to get some small things-one has the tendency to spend too much there on all the temptations and you should never go on an empty stomach, forget it! I came in and Sam, the son and the one who has taken over running the place, had just finished a standing pork rib roast and set it on the back counter in all it's oozing-with-rich-juices glory. The smell was heaven and I noticed the deep rich brown of the crust that glistened and promised a bite of crispy delight. I was NOT going to get any even though it pulled me to it the whole time I made my other purchases: the yogurt and-I fought a quick battle with myself that was lost before it even started- I got a big wedge of Kanafee: Middle Eastern cheesecake like no cheesecake you've ever tasted. The crust is made from semolina flour and actually encases the entire cake which is very large (the size of a large pizza). It's sweetened with honey and is light and crumbly in the mouth. The filling is a subtle, mellow rich blend of ricotta, cream and homemade curd that is not very sweet but utterly satisfying. Heated a bit and dribbled with honey it takes all my will power not to consume the huge hunk I end up getting in one sitting. Sam's father told me once that the pie won first place for cheesecake in a cooking show at the Javits Center.Sam was clever as usual and insisted that I take a small taste of the pork roast, "just to try". I bought close to a pound after the first bite. Sam does all the specials and this was one of his best out of so many bests. He'd marinated it with cream sherry, garlic, onion and olive oil. I took it home and indulged in it all by itself, on a plate with the deep brown au jus Sam had included dripping off the sides. Each bite was a burst of tender perfect meat, crusty crackling skin and seasonings that enhanced the pork to sweet and savory glory.The family is from a small enclave called Tarsheeha that borders Syria and Lebanon in Palestine. Sam has been cooking since he was five and has run the shop since his parents retired from the business. He is sunny, friendly and knows how to treat and entice his customers. He told me some of his customers eat all their meals from him and swear by the healing power of his food - their doctors are mystified by their good health.Apparently there is a national Crab Cake Eaters Club that tours the country and stopped by The Family Store on the reputation of Sam's Crab Cakes. They voted his the best in the country and after one bite of the things, with his homemade jalapeno tarter sauce, it's no surprise why. They have very little in the way of filler and it only acts to bind up the bounty of fat sweet crab chunks that are sauted to form a very thin, very crispy coating of savory caramelized flavor. The recipe is a secret and is used to make shrimp cakes as well. You will find whole fat shrimp in mouthfuls of these gems. Both go exactly right with his basic tarter sauce made from jals, pickles, capers, mayo, sour cream, lemon and Dijon.The other area of irresistible temptation is on the counter by the register and next to the Kanafee. There is always a silver bowl of freshly made falafel to take home or wrapped up in pita with all the fixings by the kitchen, homemade hot sauce and tahini a must. Then there are the Kibbee Balls: appetizer size fritters of chopped lamb, pine nuts and onions in a shell of cracked wheat, ground lamb and egg. The other kind of Kibbee Balls offered are vegetarian and are a meld of pumpkin, spinach, onion, chick peas and walnuts. Then there are little meat and cheese pies, and Aj-eh; flat egg fritters of zucchini, onion, parsley and mint.Going in each week for my yogurt is all I can afford because I never come out with anything less then a bit of everything! I spend the rest of the week indulging until it's time for more yogurt and then the battle begins anew. The one in which I'm always happy to be the vanquished: to the loser the spoils!
THE FAMILY STORE: 6905 Third Ave., Brooklyn, NY
(718) 748-0207