Despite the heat from the blazing streets and scarce shade I walked the 12 or so blocks to Areo on the corner of 85th st. and Third Avenue in Bayridge. I had decided that today was the day for Black Pasta with Sausage and Calamari.Once inside the airy cool restaurant that has two large, high-ceilinged rooms and a huge granite topped wooden bar that takes up a third of the front room, I was presented with a glass of ice water that the best of waiters seemed to almost have ready for me as I came in glowing with heat from the street. That's Mo for you; the waiter with perfect timing and a gracious, knowledgeable demeanor. Just like that I had a plate of Zucchini Sticks, thin lightly coated and fried to goldenness, two small pieces of Bruschetta and a small dish with paper thin Salami, assorted olives, a small mound of Ricotta seasoned with a little lemon and pepper, and a couple of small hard wedges of Provolone.I ordered the Black Linguini with Calamari and Sausage, then sat back to nibble, sip and anticipate its arrival. The Bruschetta had the usual ripe red and juicy tomatoes to form the sweet background for lots of garlic, a little bit of onion, and Italian Parsley. Bits of chopped olives added just the right touch to the traditional ingredients while the grilled bread it all sat on got slowly saturated and softened with each bite. I covered the Zucchini Sticks with lots of fresh lemon and picked up two or three at a time, tilted my head back and dropped them hot, mellow and crispy into my mouth. I spread a bit of the Ricotta on bread from the basket, topped it with Salami, a slice of Provolone and enjoyed the mix of textures and flavors; from the creamy bland Ricotta to the sharp Provolone to the salty bite of Salami.Areo has been going strong and delicious for seventeen years. I consider it the best Italian restaurant in NYC. It might be way out here in Bayridge but it has welcomed the likes of Hillary, Mick, Patti La Belle, LL Cool Jay, and Fat Joe. A few members of the cast of the Sopranos make it in regularly, while there is a decided and titillating sense of the real Goombas who also frequent the place.Roger and his cousin Reno own the restaurant, as well as Donald Sachs in the Winter Garden and Saracen in the Hamptons. Like all good eateries, you can judge part of its success by the length of time the staff has worked there. This is very true at Areo where the all male staff, the bartenders, the chef and busboys, are seasoned hands - the pasta chef preparing my Linguini had been working for the family for 20 years - and they add a significant ingredient to the smooth, pleasurable experience of the place.The best time to go for me is a Friday or Saturday night where I always sit at the bar so I can hang out with Rosie-the only female there and an absolute stitch. She is the small, long-curly-haired pistol-of-a-bartender behind the immense bar and orders all the men around to her whim. They love her sassy ways and her skill. Her Espresso Martinis go down sweet and smooth. The combination of Espresso, vanilla vodka, and Crème de Cacao ice cold and straight up is a coffee lover's dream that mellows you out and perks you up at the same time. Her Mojitos are also sublime but as any bartender will verify, a real pain in the ass to make. All that mint muddling you know...the crowd gets thick with various shades of Brooklynites; lawyers, detectives, rich kids from the gorgeous homes on Shore Road, Russian, Italian, Jewish and Greek families that converse in their own languages or with strong Brooklyn accents: "Nyet, Nyet, whaddya tawkin about!" Lots of parties take place from bachelorettes to graduations and kids are tolerated to roam around and visit. I have more fun just sitting there watching it all unfold while Rose waxes hilarious and everything hums with that unique restaurant rhythm danced out by the graceful waiters swinging by laden with all the delicious offerings.My pasta arrived and for a moment I just looked at it. The black strands of Linguine steamed fragrantly in the deep red of the sauce that was chunky with savory pieces of Italian sausage. White rings of Calamari contrasted in stark white against the dark richness. I took a deep breath over the bowl and inhaled a scent that reminded me of a fresh morning tide pool where the black curly seaweed that clings to the rocks and mussels glistens with seawater and smells of the ocean. Accompanying this note was the rest of the orchestra of aromas; garlic, sausage, Marinara, and the Parmesan and pepper I had the busboy liberally grind over the top.It was too hot and I waited in mouthwatering impatience to take my fist bite. When I could stand it no longer I wrapped the ebony strings around my fork, soaked it in sauce, speared a ring of squid and bit down to dusky rich heaven. The pasta had a brilliant dark bite from the depths that bound the tender mild Calamari and the spicy tomato and sausage in a background of succulent richness. Like a fine steak, almost earthy and just as robust.Black Linguine is made from the ink of squids that is squeezed out and used instead of water to form the dough. They use only the best imported product at Areo and Mo tells me they make it many different ways on request but the dish I was enjoying is the one on the menu and this was the first time I tried it. It surpassed my every expectation and certainly I've been spoiled for any other pasta dish for awhile. I sat for a good while and indulged in this new found treat almost moaning at times with pleasure.
The more I savored it the more savory it got and I couldn't satiate my taste buds or stop the yen for all that tomato red, spicy sausage, mellow sweet Calamari flavor cuddling around the ink black strands; dark, delicious and swimming in their own small sea of complimentary textures and taste. I ate every last string and when the busboy came to clear off the rest of the dish that I was just to full to honor by finishing I couldn't bear to even let that bit go so I had him wrap it up.I headed home by way of a car service too satisfied and stuffed to suffer the hot walk home and had a nice long nap, where I dreamed of a bright sea and the succulent tender tastes from her dark depths.
AREO: 8424 Third Ave., Brooklyn, NY
(718) 238-0079
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